History

Pondicherry is situated on the Coromandel Coast, about 160 kilometers (100 miles) south of Chennai in the state of Tamil Nadu. This quaint seaside town was ruled by the French for over 300 years, which explains its distinct French appeal. Pondicherry traces its origin to the greatly revered sage of South India, Saint Agasthya. Excavations in the ancient port town of Arikamedu, about 7 kilometers (4 miles) from the city, reveal the presence of a Roman settlement about 2000 years ago. The city has also been witness to many battles between the British, Dutch and French, and also served as the capital of French India before it attained its independence.

In the 4th century Pondicherry was a part of the Pallava kingdom of Kanchipuram, and continued to be a part of several South Indian dynasties for the next few centuries. This includes the Chola Kings of Thanjavur in the 10th century who ruled for over 300 years before being replaced by the Pandya kingdom. Pondicherry came to be ruled by various Muslim rulers of the North, the Vijayanagar Empire, followed by the Sultan of Bijapur who came to rule over Gingee. The 17th century marked the beginning of colonial era in India. The French set up their trading post in Pondicherry in 1673 which soon became the chief French settlement in the country. Pondicherry was conquered by the Dutch in 1693 but returned it to France by the Treaty of Ryswick in 1699.

Mahe was captured by the French in the 1720s, followed by Yanam in 1731 and Karaikal in 1738. Pondicherry changed hands very frequently during the Anglo-French wars from 1742-1763. The British troops conquered the French domains in the city on 16 January 1761, but after signing the Treaty of Paris in 1763 returned it to the French. In the course of the French Revolution in France, the British re-acquired Pondicherry from the French in 1793. But was once again returned to France in 1814. Even after the British gained control over the whole of India in the late 1850s they let France retain their settlements in the country. This included Mahe, Yanam, Karaikal and Chandernagar which remained a part of the French territory until 1954.

After the rest of India gained independence from British rule in 1947, an agreement was made between France and India in the following year to an election in France’s Indian possessions to choose their political future. And on 1 November 1954, Pondicherry became a part of India. This was followed by a Treaty of Cessation - along with Karaikal, Yanam and Mahe – signed on 28 May 1956. Pondicherry got the status of a Union Territory to be administered by the President of India in 1962 under the 14th Amendment of the Indian Constitution.

Even today there are a few French families living here, and most of the city streets continue to be referred to by their French names. The French influence is particularly apparent in the layout of the city, where the streets run parallel and perpendicular to each other. You will notice that most of the French Quarter or Goubert Avenue is filled with pretty Parisian villas with long compounds and white-washed walls. The numbering of the houses is also unique compared to other cities in Tamil Nadu, in that all with the even numbers are on one side and the odd number are on the opposite side of the tree-lined boulevard. Sri Aurobindo Ashram located on Rue de la Marine, lends Pondicherry a spiritual feel. It is the place where the great Indian philosopher Aurobindo Ghosh lived and died. Set up in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo, the ashram even today attracts hoards of visitors from within the country and outside. Aurobindo’s philosophy is derived in a combination of yoga and modern science.

Surface

With Chennai at about 160 kilometers (100 miles) north of the city, getting to Pondicherry involves a three hour road journey from Chennai. You can get a bus from CMBT in Koyambedu or from Thiruvanmiyur or Guindy. You can be sure of a seat only from CMBT in Koyambedu.

The drive from Chennai to Pondicherry on the East Coast Road, commonly called ECR, is scenic, and takes about 3 hours. Most tourists, however, cannot resist the sight of the seashore kissing the road, and make a photo stops en route. This route passes through Mahabalipuram, Kalpakkam, Pudupattinam, Idaikkazhinadu (Alambara Fort), Mudaliarkuppam (has a cool boat house), Marakkanam (contains large areas under salt pans), Kanagachettikulam/Kalapet etc. before arriving into Pondicherry.

The other route that can be taken to reach Pondy is through the National Highway 45, popularly known as the Grand Southern Trunk GST Road. This route passes through Tambaram, Madhurantakam, Melmaruvathur, Tindivanam before reaching Pondicherry. Both the major roads from Chennai are toll roads and approximately take the same time.

Pondicherry is about 320 kilometers (200 miles) from Bangalore. You can drive down National Highway 7 till Krishnagiri, then take a left off the main highway (road signs mark the route) and then take National Highway 66 to Pondicherry. This route passes through Uthangarai, Chengam, Tiruvannamalai, Gingee and Tindivanam. You can reach Pondicherry either through Tindivanam (via Gingee) or Villupuram (via Thirukovilur). Gingee Fort is also on the way to Tindivanam and worth a brief pause. The total travel time should be around 5 to 6 hours. For your journey, don’t forget to pack some food or snacks as there are no good restaurants en route.

Besides, Pondicherry is well connected to Cuddalore, Chidambaram, Karaikal, Nagapattinam and Velankanni to the South by National Highway 45A. The road is well maintained till Chidambaram. Pondicherry connects to the GST or NH-45 in two places viz. at Villupuram by NH-45A and at Tindivanam by NH-66.

Train

Pondicherry is connected to Chennai by an electric broad gauge railway line through Villupuram. There are two passenger trains running daily to Chennai Egmore Railway station and Tirupati, in addition to a weekly express train service to Bhubaneswar. Besides, there is also a daily express train to Chennai Egmore. Pondicherry is also accessible from Bangalore. Train starts from Bangalore on Friday night 2315 hours, and the return journey begins on Saturday night 2200 hours.

Air

Pondicherry has an airport with facilities for the landing of small aircraft like Dornier, Cessna, etc. But it is not available for public use presently.